Why Do Some Healed Brows Turn Purple, Green, or Red? The Art and Science Behind Pigment Selection for Perfect Eyebrows
These were Munique Brows Studio Clients requested for Brow Corrections.
Have you ever noticed some healed brows fade into unexpected shades of purple, green, or red? Maybe you’ve seen this on yourself or someone else who’s had permanent makeup done a while ago. While this can be disappointing—and even alarming—it’s more common than you might think. But the good news? It’s also preventable.
Unnatural fading is usually the result of improper pigment selection. Choosing the right pigment blend isn’t just about picking a color that looks good in the bottle—it’s a highly personalized process that takes into account your skin tone, undertones, hair color, and even how your body is likely to metabolize the pigment over time. In this post, we’ll walk you through how professionals select the ideal pigment blend to create beautifully natural, long-lasting brows that age gracefully.
The Chemistry Behind Pigment Fading
First, let’s talk briefly about why pigments can fade to odd colors:
Purple or blue tones often result from black-based pigments oxidizing in cooler skin tones.
Red or orange hues can emerge when warm pigments lose their brown or neutralizing components.
Green or grey tints typically show up when warm tones fade out of cooler skin or when carbon-based pigments dominate.
In most cases, these shifts aren’t caused by poor technique—but by not fully tailoring the pigment blend to the individual’s unique skin chemistry. Skin type plays a role as well as the right technique pairing with the right pigment mix leads to better healed outcome.
A Personalized Approach to Pigment Blending
Every client is different, and a skilled permanent makeup artist will consider multiple factors before choosing a pigment:
1. Skin Tone & Undertone
This is where the real artistry begins. We don’t just look at whether your skin is light, medium, or deep—we also assess whether you have warm, cool, or neutral undertones. Someone with cool undertones will require a warmer pigment blend to avoid ashiness, while warmer skin tones may need neutral or slightly cooler pigments to prevent healed brows from looking too red or orange.
2. Natural Hair Color
Your natural brow or hair color gives us a clue about how to achieve the most natural-looking results. Ash blondes may require cooler tones, while rich brunettes might lean toward warmer browns. The goal is to enhance—not fight—your natural coloring.
3. Skin Type
Oily, dry, or combination skin can impact how pigment settles and heals. Oily skin, for instance, tends to fade pigment faster and may cause cooler or ashy results. This influences not only the pigment chosen but also how it’s layered and implanted into the skin.
4. Previous Work (if any)
If you’re coming in for a correction or touch-up, we need to carefully assess the underlying color left in your brows and use color theory to neutralize any unwanted tones. For example, correcting green brows may require warm tones like orange-based correctors before layering the desired shade. Depending on the saturation of the previous work, laser removal or laser lightening may be required first.
Quality Pigments Matter
Not all pigments are created equal. High-quality pigment lines are designed with better retention, less risk of discoloration, and more stable fading. We use professional-grade / medical grade pigments that are formulated for long-term stability and compatibility with different skin types.
The Blend Is Custom For You—Not One Size Fits All
No pre-mixed bottle can give every client perfect results. We often mix custom blends right in the studio to create the perfect tone for your brows. Think of it as creating a foundation match, but even more nuanced—because once it’s implanted, it’s not as easy to change.
Healing & Aftercare: The Final Ingredient
Even the perfect pigment blend needs proper aftercare to heal beautifully. Following your artist’s healing instructions—like avoiding excessive sweating, sun exposure, or picking at scabs—helps ensure your brows retain the intended color over time. Sunscreen application over the healed eyebrows is recommended for better retention.
Conclusion: Beautiful Brows Begin With the Right Pigment
If you’ve ever wondered why some brows fade beautifully while others take on odd hues, now you know—it’s all in the pigment selection. The right blend, combined with professional expertise and high-quality products, makes all the difference.
Your skin is unique, and your brows should be, too. When you trust your artist to customize your pigment blend, you’re investing in results that will look natural—not just today, but months and years down the line.
4D Nano Combo Brows by Master Artist and Training Director, Mei | IG: @muniquebrows
Ready to transform your brows the right way? Book your appointment today and let’s design the perfect custom pigment blend for your skin, your tone, and your style. We do conduct a detailed consultation at the initial session. We look forward to having you at our Studio soon!